Weekly Shelfie: Stormy Weather

If you follow me on instagram(If you don’t you should!) I post a shelfie every sunday for shelfie sunday. Well, thought I’d share them here as well along with some musings. I will share the photo itself along with the embedded instagram post.

It’s storming here today. Some of the worst thunder and lightning we’ve had in awhile. Seems to be done for now but more might come.

Had a fairly busy week, but in a good way! My internship is picking up and I just got hired for another position that starts monday! I also went up north to northern michigan, one of my favorite places in the world. I’m there frequently because my boyfriend lives up there during the spring/summer. It’s always a great escape and nice to step away from life for a few days.

Hopefully you are all doing well and staying safe during these uncertain times!

Brand Overview: Youth to the People

Happy End of June! I am officially done with my first year of grad school! So as I look for summer opportunities and ways to make money I thought I’d return to blogging.

I decided to introduce a new series on my blog. Brand Overview! I have tried my fair share of brands after being a makeup/skincare obsessed for the past 6 years and blogging about it for 2. This series will highlight one brands products I have tried and my opinions.

So the first brand I’m going with is….

Youth To The People

Youth to the People(or YTTP) is a vegan, cruelty skincare brand founded in 2015. Their people centric mission aims to deliver high quality, plant and science powered skincare to all people. Pricing is fair, cheaper than other ‘clean’ skincare brands but still expect to pay between $35-$62 dollars for the products.

I have been using Youth to the People since 2018. I discovered them through the skinsta community and have regularly featured their products on my instagram. I love their aesthetic, the simple clean, glass package and black bolded offers a sleek look that will class up any shelf. Also reusable! I love reusing the jars after I’m done to store various little things.

They are also a very socially aware brand. In the past they have released products where part of the proceeds go to benefit certain causes like the LGBT+ community and immigration reform. Their blog To The People features posts related to mindfulness, social justice, and sustainability. Now there may be no ethical consumption under capitalism AND we are not going to undo centuries of systematic oppression by buying a moisturizer, but I do admire brands who proudly advocate for a better world. Recently the company has been sharing anti-racism resources on their blog and pledged to donate $50,000 to various orgs in support black lives matter. Learn more about the YTTP’s mission, beliefs, and the valuable work that they do here!

Of their 11 current products I have tried 6. I have repurchased a few of them multiple times(I think I am on my 4th superfood whipped moisture cream), and there isn’t a higher compliment than a skincare addict going out and repurchasing somethings she’s already tried.

Superfood Cleanser

  • $36
  • 8oz
  • Available in Refill(16oz) for $62

This was my first YTTP product and I’m in love! I have purchased it multiple times and recommend it to anyone who listens. Leaves your face clean but not stripped. Also has that refreshing green smell that I love. One negative is the pump leaks so be careful not to waste product!

Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Mask

  • $48
  • 2oz

This is hands down one of my favorite skincare products ever! I am half convinced this product was created with me in mind. You have the beautiful cocktail of vitamin C(a deritivate, not as effect as AA but definitely more stable), squalane, and hyaluronic acid, plus it smells like mimosa. Thick texture so only recommend for nighttime use. But you wake up with glowy, plump skin almost every time.

Yerba Mate Resurfacing Energy Facial

  • $54
  • 2oz
  • This product was sent to me for review

This is the most recent youth to the people product I have tried. This microdermabrasion facial uses both physical chemical exfoliants to reveal soft skin with little irritation. I was surprised by this product. I usually do not like one time exfoliant treatments but this was gentle enough to make it a pleasant spa like experience. Only use at night or do not go into the sun after.

Superfood Air-Whip Moisture Cream

  • $48
  • 2oz

Another HG product for me. I have gone through countless jars of this moisturizer at this point. I am VERY picky when it comes to day moisturizers. It needs to be lightweight and non sticky, especially when it comes to layering makeup or SPF on top. This is absorbs nicely and plumps well. Light scent, the same as the cleansers, but not overwhelming. It gives you the plump appearance similar to the Drunk Elephant Protini for almost half the price. Very much recommend!

Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream

  • $58
  • 2oz
  • This product was sent to me for review

A high quality moisturizer for dry sensitive skin. Not my personal favorite for my skin type but a great product if you struggle with dry skin. I liked to put this on the drier parts of my face in winter because it nourished without irritation, but not my favorite product from the line

Superberry Hydrate + Glow Oil

  • $44
  • 1oz

This is a solid, good quality oil. Lightweight, fast absorbing, light citrus scent, and a great booster for the Superberry mask(Trust me, add a couple drops and your skin will glow like never before.) However, as a facial oil addict it is not my favorite. Once again, not because it is bad, I just prefer other more cost effective oils over this one. Which is why I do not have an update photo of the product because, unlike other YTTP products I have not repurchased it.

Conclusion

Overall, I am very impressed by youth to the people and the various products I have tried from them through the years. I will update this post if my opinions change on the products listed above or if I try a new product from them.

I hope you have a wonder day!

User Generated Content and Copyright

Note: This a final paper I wrote for my SI 519 Class.

Who was named the Time Magazine Person of the Year in 2006? It was ‘You.’ More specifically it was the millions of anonymous users contributing content to the emerging collaborative platforms of the Web 2.0[1].  Time reasoned their selection with the following: “For seizing the reins of the global media, for founding and framing the new digital democracy, for working for nothing and beating the pros at their own game, Time’s Person of the Year for 2006 is you.”(Grossman, 2006) Though US Copyright Law existed long before the Time Magazine honored this new form of intellectual work, user generated content abides by the same copyright regulations as older, traditional works. This paper will give a broad overview on the relationship between US copyright law and user generated content and explore how copyright reform could help strengthen and protect the today’s participatory internet culture.

 User generated content (UGC) is partially, if not wholly, created using tools specific to online environments and/or disseminated using such tools. Two key features of UGC are most user are not owners/employees of the platform and the content generated allows interaction from other users (Hetcher, 2008, p. 864). It is a key feature of Web 2.0[2] platforms, including Facebook, Wikipedia, YouTube, Twitter, who feature UGC in the forms of status updates, photos, user comments, and videos. All social networking platforms traffic in UGC and many traditional websites, like news outlets or ecommerce, utilize UGC to enhance user experience.

UGC refers broadly to all content generated in the participative internet, but Daniel Gervais argues there are three different categories of UGC (Gervais, 2006, p. 857). User authored content; the content being generated is original work created by the user. Examples include family photos, original writings, and personal videos. User copied content; directly copying work generally view as infringement unless user has permission, or it falls under fair use.  Examples include sharing unoriginal writings without permission, uploading feature films to personal accounts. User-derived content, a more complicated form whose legal status is debated. Examples include memes, fan fiction, and commentary videos.

 There is a misconception that users are not copyright holders of the original content they generate. That sharing your photos, writing, videos on social networking sites instantly forfeits copyright of that content. That is incorrect. None of the popular sites that host UGC require you to transfer copyright of your original work.(Hetcher, 2012, p. 840) Instead users agree to an extensive license to allow the platform to host and distribute the content.[3] For example, Instagram ‘Terms of Use’ describes their license as follows:

We do not claim ownership of your content that you post on or through the Service. Instead, when you share, post, or upload content that is covered by intellectual property rights (like photos or videos) on or in connection with our Service, you hereby grant to us a non-exclusive, royalty-free, transferable, sub-licensable, worldwide license to host, use, distribute, modify, run, copy, publicly perform or display, translate, and create derivative works of your content.(Instagram, 2018)

There is variation in the licensing requirements based on the platform, but many require this wide range of use, and none by default extend this license to other users.  The platform may offer built-in feature for users to utilize other’s UGC, like the retweet function of Twitter or the share function on Facebook which still attribute content to the original author, but users delivering content without attribution is a violation of copyright laws.

 Misconceptions surrounding copyright and UGC can be explained by a few factors. These extensive licenses give platforms a lot of control over UGC, including sub licensing. Platforms like Instagram are fully within their rights to license UGC to third parties on and off the platform(Neild, 2018).[4] If Instagram receives a request to remove copyrighted content shared on the platform without permission, if the copyright owner uploaded the content to Instagram previously thus granting Instagram this license, it is within Instagram licensing agreement to be able to grant a sublicense to the offender and not remove the requested content. If the copyright holder decides to remove their content from Instagram that does not terminate third party sublicense that were made during the licensing period.  

  The media’s coverage of infringement of UGC also contributes to the confusion. When covering the ‘New Portrait’ exhibit scandal, where artist Richard Prince featured others’ Instagram pictures without their permission(Contrera, 2015), outlets used headlines like ‘How an artist can steal and sell your Instagram photos’ and ‘A reminder that your Instagram photos aren’t really yours: Someone else can sell them for $90,000.’ This reinforced the narrative that users have no control over who uses and profits from their content. Richard Prince’s defense was the Instagram license granted permission to other users to share the content and his work fell under fair use because he modified the captions.[5] Instagram denied their terms of service automatically extend the license to users for use off the platform and Instagram did not grant Prince a sublicense (Pagliery, 2015). Because no users featured in the exhibit sued Prince for infringement, he stood by his fair use defense.

 Another factor is regular users do not think of themselves as copyright holders. People often view copyright as a professional issue oppose to a personal one (Hetcher, 2008, p. 864). Even in professional settings individuals rarely get opportunity to hold copyright over their work, especially when a place of employment requires that all work generated by its employees be owned by the employer. Users uploading photos and writing essays about their day at the beach may not feel like work and offer little return on investment. Few users would object to their content on social media being copied for copyright reasons, being more concerned about their privacy being violated than their intellectual property being stolen. Users do not view their social media content as a commodity but personal mementos similar to letters or photo albums.

 Unlike its physical counterparts, the average user’s content has a greater potential of reaching a larger audience.  As 2019 people spend an average of 2 hours and 20 minutes on social media a day[6]( Salim, 2019), a number that increases year after year. Users are spending time and money on social media similar to how they would on traditional media. People do not go on Facebook to see what advanced tools and applications the Facebook team created; they go on to see what content users create with those tools. Users bond over UGC and create communities of members from across the world. Users can ‘go viral’ for funny photo or anecdotes and potentially reach millions of people.  

 UGC ability to reach and connect people is utilized by businesses for marketing purposes. The assumption is using UGC cuts marketing costs. While true, utilizing UGC helps businesses connect with users, leading to stronger engagement and more dedicated customers. Whether requesting new content or purchasing a license to old, a new billion-dollar industry of people influencing others with their UGC has developed with companies buying content from these ‘influencers.’ However, there is an issue of businesses using UGC without permission from the original other author.

 The process of users finding recourse when their copyright is infringed is limited. If the infringement occurs online users can take advantage of The Digital Millennium Copyright Act (Wichtowski, 2017, p. 255). The DMCA was written with the intention of protecting both the copyright holders and the service providers from users who violate copyright law.  Under the DMCA copyright holders or their representatives can request service providers[7] to take down the infringing content after filing a take down notice. Many service providers provide forms to file a DMCA takedown request with them.[8] If the provider does not offer their own DMCA form copyright holders must submit a written request to the service provider. The potential infringer can even appeal the notice if they argue the content is not infringing. Finding recourse if the DMCA request gets ignored or denied or if the infringement occurs offline is more difficult. User would need to bring their case to court. A costly endeavor when considering legal fees and official registration of copyright[9]. There is little precedent for copyright cases involving UGC, making this prospect a risky choice for the copyright holder.

 Another issue regarding UGC involves the aforementioned user derived content’s place in internet culture. Steven Jamar (2012) explains the issue as follows:

Popular online social networking sites such as Facebook and YouTube create new challenges to copyright law, particularly through user- generated content that uses or is derived from copyrighted works. The hardware and software that users need to manipulate digitized works are more affordable and easier to use than ever before. As a result, more people can more easily and cheaply copy and distribute works and make derivative works of all types (literary, audio-visual, audio, graphic, etc.) with a broad range of quality, including some of very high quality. (p.3)

A large part of internet culture is built on the derived content Jamar describes. Memes, viral videos, trending topics can all utilize copyrighted materials. As of now, copyright holders accommodate this social networking use by seldomly enforcing their rights to stop it.(Jamar, 2012, p.4) But this precedent is not a guaranteed protection. Recently the Ellen Show issued a copyright takedown of a video critical of her support of George W Bush that imposed pictures from the Iraq War over a monologue of her defending her friendship (Masnick, 2019). There is a debate if the video counted as transformative, but the format of imposing text/photos over a copyrighted video is a common practice in internet culture.

  The current US copyright laws are insufficient in addressing today’s issues surrounding copyright protection of original UGC and the need to accommodate derivative content at the heart of internet culture. How can this system be improved? Other governing bodies[10] are trying to bridge the gap between platforms benefiting from UGC with little benefit to the user. US copyright reform should consider a better path to recourse for infringed parties[11]. Reform should also expand on the definition of Fair Use to accommodate the realities of internet culture. Digital rights advocates call for a fair use that involves a ‘wide berth for transformative, creative uses,’(Electronic Frontier Foundation, 2007) still allowing for copyright holders to pursue non-transformative uses of their content online, but protect derivative ‘works used for purposes of comment, criticism, reporting, parody, satire, or scholarship, or as the raw material for other kinds of creative and transformative works. The realities surrounding user generated content questions the adequacy of U.S. copyright laws and its system of enforcement.  A more robust system is required to strengthen and protect the today’s participatory internet culture. There are various perspectives on the best way of achieving these reforms, but the end product should protect copyright holders while giving other users more power under fair use. These seemingly contradictory ideas are both necessary to foster an internet that encourages creation and dissemination of knowledge.


[1]Time Magazine(2006) describes Web 2.0 as ‘It’s a tool for bringing together the small contributions of millions of people and making them matter. Silicon Valley consultants call it Web 2.0, as if it were a new version of some old software. But it’s really a revolution.’

[3] In my research I was unable to find a site that requires a copyright transfer of UGC

[4] Not something they do often, especially off of the platform.

[5] Prince probably felt embolden after winning on appeal in Cariou vs. Prince where the court ruled his work from an earlier exhibit fell under the protection of fair use.

[6] For context, that is a similar length to many current blockbuster movies

[7] ‘A service provider can be an internet service provider (e.g., Comcast), website operator (e.g, eBay), search engine (e.g., Google), a web host (e.g., GoDaddy) or other type of online site-operator.’ Copyright alliance

[8] Many offer steps and procedures to determine if this is truly a case of copyright infringement. Encouraging users to reach out to the offender first to see if they will remove the content.

[9] DMCA does not require registration of copyright.

[10] Both Canada and EU have done work to reform copyright laws to better accommodate the digital world. (Clark, 2018)

[11] This appears to be a controversial opinion in many current writings. Some worry creating a more robust protection system for internet content could lead to privacy concerns. A fascinating topic I do not have time for in this paper.

Hello 2020!

The new year always brings self reflection. Lately I keep thinking about how much my life has changed since this time last year. I started my skincare instagram late summer 2018 and spent most of the following Fall and Winter developing and growing it. By early 2019 I had gained 5000 followers in 6 month! I loved being a part of this niche community testing new products, working with brands, and meeting like minded people. It was a passion project that allowed me to be creative and have fun in my free time.

Then everything changed when I unexpectedly had to move back in with my father after a breakup. Admittedly I had been unhappy for awhile and wanted to make a change with what I was doing with my life, and for better or worse, moving into my father’s basement was just the push I needed to really examine what I wanted to do next. So I spent much of 2019 just trying to figure myself out. And honestly as crazy and emotional as it all was 2019 was probably one of the best years of my life.

I won’t go into details here(if you care to know message me) but there we so many great things to happen to me this year. Including:

  • Quit my job and became a full time grad student
  • Moving out of my father’s basement into my own apartment
  • Reconnected and continued to grow closer to people important to me
  • Met someone special
  • Traveled a lot. Including ending the year in Barcelona.
  • Read and watched some quality content

Overall, 2019 was an eventful year. And unfortunately my skincare blogging took a backseat. I’d come back for brief periods but life made it hard to be fully engaged. But now that things are more stable(kinda) I want to start blogging again! So here is my first attempt at it.

My goals for it are modest. I’d like to start posting again regularly with the intention to post a couple times a week. I may take breaks depending on school, but 2 posts a week seems doable. I want to expand on how I do my content/what I cover. I will stick to skincare and beauty on instagram but may diversify here on the blog. I also want to bring Atwillblog to other platforms(this is still a work in progress.)

As an introduction back into the world of skinsta I had an idea. Over the next few weeks my content will focus on my current favorite products broken down into categories. I did a similar series when I first started my page and it be fun to do an updated version! Especially considering it has been ages since I last shared any routines or favorites. I will have a quick breakdown on instagram accompanied by a blog post explaining what I love about each product.

So keep a look out for that! I am excited to actually begin working on this again and I hope you enjoy what comes of it!

Hope everyone had a great new year, thank you for being here and supporting my content.

Function of Beauty Review

Disclaimer: Hair Mask and Hair Serum were sent by Function of Beauty for review. Opinions are my own.

Happy October! The leaves are starting to change and I’m wearing sweaters again. the most magical time of the year!

Today I’m reviewing the two newest products from Function of Beauty that launch today!

Introducing the Custom Hair Mask and the Custom Hair Serum!

Hair Mask and Hair Serum

I’ve previously reviewed Function’s shampoo and conditioner and leave-in treatment. That blog got deleted with my other blog entries when I switched blog platforms. But here’s a TLDR:

  • Did not like the Shampoo and Conditioner. Thought it was too stripping and did not clean well
  • Liked the leave-in
  • Think the reasons I did not like the S&C was because of my hair goal choices

Moving on! Based on my past experience, I decided to approach these products differently. Every Function of Beauty order is custom made for you! You begin your order with a quiz to build your hair profile(Hair Type, Hair Structure, and Scalp Moisture) then you select your hair goals, fragrance, and color.

I approached my Hair Goals a little differently this time. You can choose up to 5, and in my first function order I chose 5 without thinking about them. This time I thought about what I really wanted, and also what goals would compliment each other. I ended up only choosing 4 this time but the experience has been so much better!

For fragrance I picked ‘Feeling (f)ineapple’ a yummy pineapple coconut mix. You can customize the color of the hair mask(I forgot to do this) but not the hair serum.

Now onto the Reviews!

The Custom Hair Mask

Hair Mask Texture

An intensive, Deep conditioning mask that’s designed to hydrate and nourish dry, damaged hair in minutes. Apply directly after shampooing evenly coat your hair mid-shaft to end. Comb through to get the best application. Keep on for the recommended time(personalized for you!) then rinse.

Quick Facts:

  • 7.5 oz Jar
  • $19
  • Customizable Color and Scent
  • Key ingredients include Argan Oil, Jojoba Ester Oil, Japanese Sake.
  • For best results use once a week

Review: I love this hair mask! I’ve used it 3 times and my hair was soft and shiny and smelt wonderful all day! Function recommended I leave it on for 5-10 minutes, which is the perfect time frame. The little comb they sent is perfect for dispersing the product through my thick, wet hair. Also works great as a quick conditioner as well. And $19 dollars is not a bad price for almost 8oz of hair mask.

Custom Hair Serum

Hair Serum

A lightweight, customizable finishing product that’s designed to help enhance shine, smooth frizz, and increase hair’s overall manageability. Apply as a styling or finishing product.

Quick Facts:

  • 3oz bottle
  • $19
  • Customizable Color and Scent
  • Key ingredients include Argan Oil, Jojoba Oil, Anatto Oil, Sunflower Oil.
  • Can be used on wet and dry hair.

Review: Overall, a solid product! It has not replaced my beloved verb ghost oil as a daily finishing product, but I do enjoy it a lot. It’s not heavy or greasy, and does give an great smooth, hydrated look. I only use it on wet hair, so I can’t speak on how it performs on dry hair. But definitely a fan!

Try Function Yourself!

For the month of October, use promo code (DEARHAIR) at checkout for 20% off your first order at functionofbeauty.com (*offer ends 10/31)

123FRE Set Review

Welcome to the first blog post of my relaunched blog! Start it off good and simple. With a Review!

Thank you to Fre Skincare for sending there 123FRE set for review!

A little about Fre Skincare. Fre was designed with women who work out in mind. It’s for the person who goes running on the beach and doesn’t want to worry about their sunscreen breaking up and their skin getting dehydrated. 123Fre set is your daily routine. a comprehensive 3 step routine that creates a “clear complexion and healthy glowy skin.”

QUICK FACTS!

  • Price: $115
  • 100% money back guarantee
  • Free shipping
  • An Argan Tree is planted in Morocco for every set sold

INITIAL THOUGHTS

I’m a skincare after workout kinda gal(except a splash of water and vitamin c serums.) So a skincare line specifically designed to be used in conjunction with workout appealed to me. Though I’ve never jogged on a beach and usually work out indoor, skincare before, during, and after workouts is important!

PACKAGING
I’m a sucker for the pale blue and white packaging. It feels clean and refreshing. However, they aren’t smudge proof. When I traveled over labor day I hastily packed my skincare and makeup in one bag, these beautiful blue boys attracted the random loose powders from the nearby products. Easy to clean but a little annoying.

THE PRODUCTS

3 products come in the 123Fre Set

Purify Me: Honestly my least favorite of the set. It’s a nice product. A creamy cleanser with round physical exfoliants. Which are unfortunately my least 2 favorite forms of cleansers. However, it is a good cleanser. It does leave your skin clean and physical exfoliants are not irritating. But I just prefer other types of cleansers. Also not a fan of the squeeze bottle packaging.

Revive Me: A deep replenishing serum. I love this serum! I love a lightweight hydrating serum in the morning. I find myself reaching for this over my other favorites recently. It’s fast absorbing and brings life to your skin.

Protect Me: Daily moisturizer with SPF 30. A nice lightweight, non-greasy moisturizer . No white cast and sits well on skin. I still apply an SPF on top because 30 is a little low. But it layers well with other SPF and makeup. A great moisturizer if you hate moisturizer.

Conclusion

Overall, it’s a great set. and it’s a MUST if you want to get started with Frè.
And they were generous enough to provide a discount code for my followers! follow the link in my bio and use code “ATWILLBLOG” for 25%